Tag Archives: superheadz

Best Film for DIY Redscale

While there are quite a lot of color negative films available to redscale, not everything turns out as warm as how I want it. This entry aims to show the different effects when different kinds of films are redscaled.

Before I introduce you the list of films I’ve redscaled, let me show you photos using a non-DIY redscale film from lomography.com. They call it Lomography Redscale XR 50-200.

I am absolutely impressed by how warm the photos can get using this film. The only deal breaker though, like many films from lomography.com, is the price. I don’t think I am willing to spend Php 945/box of three rolls  only to get this kind of shade on my prints, so I resorted to DIY. With a little research in the internet, I was able to make a redscale film of my own! To help you save time from researching, here is my very own DIY Redscale Film tutorial, click here.

1. Fuji Superia 400 – I used a Diana Mini to shoot with a redscaled Superia. The photos turned out so red, far from what I expected. I personally won’t shoot using this film very often but will definitely try it again using a different camera.

2. Agfa Vista 200 – I used Yashica Electro 35 GSN with a DIY Agfa Vista, the photos turned out more orangey and it’s lost contrast because of the rangefinder camera settings. For me, this is better than the redscaled Superia.

3. Kodak Ultramax 400 – The photos were amazing! This is even better than the Lomography Redscale XR 50-200 film. With a redscaled Ultramax, the photos are warm but not too much to hurt the eye. I like the subtlety and the olden-day feel it brings on the photos. I used a Superheadz Super Fat lens on the shots below.

The photos are how exactly I want it using an Ultramax, more golds and less saturated than Lomography XR, so I decided to use it on a few other cameras like Diana Mini and Holga CFN.

An expired Kodak Ultramax 400 is around Php45-80 pesos in the market that makes this alternative a go-to redscale film for many lomographers. I strongly recommend that you try to make a redscale film of your own especially if you are starting lomographer. It makes you not fear the coming modifications and DIY you’ll soon come across with lomography. So gather some guts now and save hundreds of pesos with a Kodak Ultramax DIY redscale film.

Agfa CT Precisa 100, A Photographic Film Review

Hello Lomography lovers! I’m here once again to help you pick photographic films in your next purchase. I know some of us have qualms in buying slide films since they’re pricier than our ordinary negative films but there are some that are really worth your every buck.

  • Speed: ISO 100 – not very sensitive to light; not recommended in low-light situations
  • Format: 35mm – can be used on 35mm cameras; can be used on medium format cameras too for sprocket photography
  • Type: Slide – cross-process exposed films to achieve vivid and saturated photos
  • Price: P230/roll – find Photofilm Manila on Facebook


I choose to review Agfa CT Precisa 100 because the results are always gorgeous. I mean I’ve used it with four different cameras and although some photos resulted to what I didn’t expect, they’re still as impressive as ever!

I first tried the film on my Diana Mini camera. Whenever I press the shutter release with Precisa loaded, I already have a picture in mind of how it will turn out. I know it’s going to be mostly high saturated shades of blue all over my print just like a Kodak Ektachrome but I’m yet to see the difference until my first processed roll came. Precisa has a more subtle blue colors, there are so much turquoise!

But I was surprised to get redscaled photos. These photos were shot on low-light conditions, still with my Diana Mini camera. Was I disappointed, not at all.

I next tried Precisa on a point and shoot camera called Bell + Howell BF 35. This combo produced more varied colors thus, the most surprising set among the four. Although turquoise is still the most prominent color, I am happy to see emerald green and pristine white on some of the shots. By the way, Bell + Howell shoots at an aperture of  f/7.7 and shutter speed of 1/100s.

Next camera I used to test Precisa is my 1969 vintage camera, Yashica Electro 35 GSN. Yashica produced pretty much the same hue that is leaning more on teal but since this camera is a rangefinder that shoots in variable aperture and shutter speed, the colors were more consistent. I always aim for the correct exposure with this camera, thus, results were more precise and not very surprising.

Another point and shoot camera I used with Precisa is Superheadz Super Fat Lens. It has a wide angle lens that takes sharp and high contrast photos. With an aperture of f/11 and shutter speed of 1/125s, I didn’t expect yellows on it as it works best with shooting outdoors with intense natural light.

In all four cameras I used with Precisa, my favorite is when I paired it with Superheadz. I’m sure you have your own pick too with its versatility and amazing range of blue to yellow hue. I noticed that my sunset shots, when the sun is so bright and close to the horizon, that’s when it produces shades of green. Turquoise is most pronounced when shooting in broad daylight which makes clouds the best subject in this case. The photos are most likely to be in redscale when light is scarce and in Bulb shutter speed setting.

My over all verdict to Agfa CT Precisa 100 is 10 stars out of 10. It’s currently my personal favorite but I’m yet to test and make a review of  a few other slides in my stash. Thank you for reading and I hope this helps with your future film shopping.

Superheadz x Yashica Electro | Agfa Vista

Some photos might be familiar to you, these were from that eventful day of June 23rd! True, I haven’t gotten over it yet.

About the schizo photos:

  • These were shot using BOTH Superheadz Super Fat Lens and the super duper Yashica Electro 35 GSN.
  • BOTH—The film I used which is Agfa Vista 100 was exposed twice using the two superb cameras that resulted with the photos below.
  • The film was first exposed using the Superheadz where the film loader is upside-down, then with the Yashica where the loader is conventional.
  • The truth is (1) I forgot about the last bullet when I loaded the film in Yashica. (2) I forgot to bring extra rolls of film that day so I decided to reuse what I just unloaded from Superheadz. (3) I am forgetful.
  • One thing I knew is that I need to double expose the ASA 100 film I used on Superheadz because with an aperture of F11 and shutter speed of 1/125s, the photos will surely be underexposed especially now that sunlight is scarce.

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